Mooring lines & anchor lines

Base the diameter and length on the boat’s length, displacement, windage, and typical mooring conditions. Inland/sheltered areas often require less reserve than open coastlines/swell. As a rule of thumb: opt for a larger size if you frequently moor in swell or tie up to dolphins/piles. The length should be chosen so that you remain flexible at the dock or mooring facility (including for spring lines).

Mooring lines: often polyester, because it is abrasion-resistant, UV-stable, and dimensionally stable (good handling, less “rubber”). Anchor lines/snubbers: often polyamide (nylon), because it has more stretch and better absorbs shock loads during gusts and swell. For special requirements (weight, very low stretch, performance), there are other constructions—the key is always the combination of comfort, safety, and durability.

A chain keeps the pull flatter, is abrasion-resistant, and provides weight for damping—ideal in wind and swell. A line is lighter, easier to handle, and often sufficient for small boats or shallow waters. A very popular combination is a chain leader plus anchor line (or chain plus nylon snubber). This combines good holding power with stretch to absorb shock loads.

To prevent chafing, use chafing protection on cleats, rail pass-throughs, and contact points, as well as proper line routing without sharp edges. To prevent shock loads, use shock absorbers, and when anchoring, use a snubber (nylon line attached to the chain), which reduces peak loads, minimizes noise, and protects fittings.

Split eyes are very popular for mooring lines (neat, durable, good load distribution). At heavily loaded points, a thimble can protect the eye from abrasion caused by shackles or chains. For anchor lines, robust end connections are particularly important because chafing and high loads frequently occur there. Make sure the eye fits the cleat or shackle.

After contact with saltwater, rinse with fresh water and store in a dry place. Check regularly for: chafing, hard/glassy spots (heat damage), UV-induced fading, damaged splices, and heavily loaded areas. Also inspect chains and shackles on the anchor system. Replace worn parts early—this increases safety and prevents further damage to cleats and thimbles.

A set of two bow/stern lines, two spring lines (forward/aft), plus a spare (e.g., a long line for bollards, locks, or emergencies) has proven effective in practice. Depending on the boat’s length, crew, and home port, more may be advisable. For changing ports, additional longer lines are often worth their weight in gold.