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Blocks & Buoys Lewmar

Lewmar fittings, blocks, and halyards are standard equipment on many cruising yachts. The British manufacturer is widely used in the yachting industry and is known for its field-tested components for the mast, deck, and hull—ranging from classic blocks and tackle systems to deck fittings. The focus is on durable materials, clearly defined load ratings, and a design that is easy to maintain during everyday life on board and can be repaired as needed.
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Show 1 to 12 (of in total 18 products)
Lewmar Block Synchro Control Single 30mm
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36,90 EUR
incl. 19 % VAT plus Shipping Costs**
Lewmar Block Synchro Double 30mm
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56,90 EUR
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Lewmar, Block Synchro Double, 40mm
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86,90 EUR
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Lewmar, Synchro Block double, grey
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48,90 EUR
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Lewmar, Synchro Block Single Alu, 60mm
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56,90 EUR
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Lewmar, Synchro Block Single Toggle black
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28,90 EUR
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Show 1 to 12 (of in total 18 products)

Lewmar fittings, blocks, and halyards are standard equipment on many cruising yachts. The British manufacturer is widely used in the yachting industry and is known for its field-tested components for the mast, deck, and hull—from classic blocks and tackle systems to deck fittings. The focus is on durable materials, clearly defined load ratings, and a design that is easy to maintain and repair as needed during everyday life on board.

For cruising sailors, the most important factors are: reliability under load, ease of use, and durability in a salty environment. Lewmar offers graded product series with appropriate safe working loads (SWL), breaking loads, and components designed for typical rope diameters and installation locations on board.

  • Material & Corrosion Protection: seawater-resistant components made of stainless steel (e.g., A4/316), aluminum, and high-quality plastics/composites—depending on the application, with a focus on weight, strength, and durability.
  • Dimensioning: clearly specified safe working load (SWL) and breaking load, appropriate rope diameter, shackle/bolt size, and mounting distances.
  • Installation: Professional mounting with appropriate screws/nuts and, if necessary, backing plates – important for deck-mounted blocks and high point loads.
  • System variety: single to triple pulleys, blocks with/without clamps, dogfoot/becket, swivels, snap shackles, and much more—for trim, mainsheet, traveller, boom vang, barberhauler, dinghy handling, etc.

FAQ

What size and load ratings (working load/breaking load) do I need for my yacht?

Focus primarily on the safe working load (SWL)—this is the relevant value for continuous operation. The breaking load is the safety margin and not a “working target.” Select the block/trolley so that the rope diameter, sheave diameter, shackle/bolt size, and the expected load at the attachment point are all compatible. For cruising yachts, a safety margin above the SWL is usually recommended, especially for mainsheets, downhalers, stretchers, and highly loaded sheaves.

How do I choose the right block for the rope (diameter, bend radius, friction)?

The block must match the rope diameter—too small means increased friction, poorer operability, and faster wear on the rope. Pay attention to the maximum rope diameter specified by the manufacturer and avoid selecting a size that’s “right at the limit.” For highly loaded trim lines or frequent winching, a larger sheave diameter is worthwhile for smoother running and less sheath abrasion.

Stainless steel, aluminum, or composite—which is best for cruising yachts?

Stainless steel (A4/316) is very robust and corrosion-resistant, but heavier. Aluminum saves weight and is very strong, but requires attention regarding contact corrosion (e.g., aluminum on stainless steel)—insulating washers, sealants, and clean installation help here. Composite/plastic is lightweight, dampens noise, and is often highly corrosion-resistant; for heavily loaded positions, selecting the correct series/load class is crucial.

How do I prevent rattling, impact loads, and premature wear?

Correct alignment (no diagonal pull), suitable shackles/brackets, and clean stops are important to ensure the block does not “work” against deck fittings. Route lines so that the entry angle is correct and no side load is placed on the bearing/sheave. For taljes, appropriate cleat positions and short free line runs help reduce slamming in rough seas.

Deck Mounting: What should I pay attention to (backing plate, gasket, screws)?

For high-load fittings, always ensure proper load distribution: use through-bolts with large washers or a backing plate. Carefully seal deck penetrations (cleanly deburr, fill/seal if necessary) to prevent water from entering the sandwich core. Use seawater-resistant screws (A4/316) and secure nuts against loosening. After the first few trips: Re-inspect the screw connections.

Maintenance: What should be checked regularly—and what is better left alone?

Check bolts/split pins, shackles, swivels, bearings, and washers for play, cracks, nicks, and smooth operation. Rinse salt off regularly with fresh water. Lubricate sparingly and use the correct lubricant for the bearing (follow manufacturer’s instructions); dirt-trapping “permanent greases” are not suitable for all applications. Do not use aggressive or acidic cleaners. If there is significant wobble, cracks, or excessive play: repair the component (if possible) or replace it—this prevents costly consequential damage to the rigging and deck fittings.

Which block variant makes sense: with/without a clamp, becket, or snap shackle?

For trimming and frequent readjustment, a block with a clamp is practical because it can be operated without an additional clamp. A becket allows for greater leverage or flexible attachment points. Snap shackles are useful when quick release is required (e.g., for certain trimming or dinghy applications)—pay particular attention here to sufficient SWL and safe operation under load.

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